Device

A Missive on Shield Making

A Barony in the Kingdom of An Tir which is
a Part of the Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA, Inc)

A Missive on Shield Making

by Ralg Nilsson

Greetings,
This missive is a result of a request for ideas on shield construction, since I thought some others could also benefit, I'm posting it to the list.

For the simplest shields I recommend a good quality 1/2 plywood. While this will result in a flat shield, it will give you a usable shield. I have seen people use 3/8 plywood. But they don't last long (we finished off one in just a single fight practice). I don't recommend anything thicker then 1/2, this pushes the weight up way too high. A 1/2 plywood heater will last about a season. A 1/2 plywood "war shield" will last years (I have three that are 10 years old).

If you want a curved shield, well, it can be done. But to curve 1/2 inch plywood takes a large, strong shield press. It takes a lot of pressure to move the wood. I have heard of people trying to "steam" or "soak" the wood to help, but I'm not certain it works all that well.

My best recommendation, for a curved shield, is to start out with a thin plywood, like 1/8 inch. You will still need a shield press, but it's much easier.

I attach the 1/8 plywood (door-skin) to the press (usually with nails, in the waste area). Then you could just glue the second layer on, then maybe a third layer. Trying to keep the total thickness to a bit less then 1/2 inch.

There is a more expensive option at this point also. After you have put the first layer of door-skin, you coat the door-skin with fiber glassing compound. Then, while it is still wet, you put the second doorskin on top. After this has cured, you put another coat of compound, and put a layer of fiberglass mat into it. When this has cured you put one more coating of compound. You can either leave it clear, or add some color to the compound (I add color). When this has cured you remove the shield from the press and put a layer of compound on the inside of the shield.

After this has cured, you cut the shield to shape. I round the edges at this point, then coat the edges with compound and mat. This gives you a nice rounded edge that is easier on other's weapons.

The total thickness of the shield is about 3/8 of an inch. But you get a shield that is -very- strong. My current white oval is about 6 years old. Some of those years were -very- heavy usage.

I don't recommend trying a single piece of door-skin. I tried that and the shield didn't last a season. You could use three, but with the life I've had out of two suggest you don't need the extra weight.

Now, so far I have used only the Poly-fiberglass compound. This is the stuff where you add a few drops of hardener to the liquid. The Poly is cheaper then the Epoxy, but it is more brittle. If you go with the Epoxy, you want to ensure you are getting the liquid epoxy, not the paste. I suspect the heavy paste would be too thick.

The last step, on any shield, is edging. You can use old bicycle tires, car heater hose, raw-hide. Almost anything that gives a small amount of "bounce". I know people that have attached this edging with anything from wire, to string to ty-wraps. I don't recommend wire, period. If you are using raw-hide, consider using copper rivets to attach it. This completes the "look" of a more period shield.

Ralg

Author and Copyright

Copyright © Aug 2002 by Ralph Lindberg, known in the SCA as Master Ralg Nilsson. Permission is granted for republication in SCA-related publications, provided the author is credited and receives a copy. Contact the webminister for more information or additional permissions.

Posted Aug 2002 by Rycheza z Polska and restyled 4/22/2011 by Aelianora de Wyntringham.

This article was submitted by the author for inclusion in the Arts and Science Archives of the Barony of Dragon's Laire. Copyright to the contents of this file remains with the author. While the author will likely give permission for this work to be reprinted in SCA type publications, please check with the author first or check for any permissions granted at the end of this file.