Boffer construction

NOTICE - This article was submitted by the author for inclusion on the official Baronial Website of the Barony of Dragon's Laire. Copyright to the contents of this file remains with the author. While the author will likely give permission for this work to be reprinted in SCA type publications, please check with the author first or check for any permissions granted at the end of this file. ----Thank you, Yvon de Rouen, webminster The webminister can assist you in contacting the author.

Ed. Note: These excellent instructions for making your boffer were prepared by one of our up and coming young men, 13 year-old Alan Gordon in 2003. As with all instructions for making fighting equipment, please check with your local marshal for any updates in regulations.

Construction of a Boffer/Jr. Heavy Sword

by Alan Gordon

These instructions will tell you how to make a Boffer or Jr. Heavy sword with or without a crosshilt. The sword will meet all requirements for Boffer and Jr. Heavy rules. The following rules are for Boffer, and that is what we will be making, but a Boffer sword is just the same as a Jr. heavy sword. So it can be used for both Boffer and Jr. Heavy.

Rules on Boffer Construction

1. Boffers will be made from schedule 40, 3/4-inch PVC pipe and appropriate pipe fittings.
2. Closed cell-foam padding must be used and must be at least 3/8-inch thick.
3. All places on the boffer which have potential for striking an opponent must be properly padded with no bald spots or holes.
4. The PVC portions of the whalebone will remain hollow. Filling PVC portions with liquids or solids is prohibited!
5. All open ends of boffers must be capped (Standard Rounded PVC Caps) or plugged and glued.
6. All ends, butts, and tips of the boffer will be padded with 1 to 3 inches of compressible foam (i.e. the foam continues at least one inch past the end of the PVC and no more than 3 inches past).
7. All PVC must be covered with fiberglass strapping tape, so that if the pipe shatters, no one is injured.
8. Once a boffer is broken, it is illegal and cannot be used. A repaired boffer must be re-inspected by a Certified Senior Boffer Marshal before it can be used again in a contest.
9. When covering the padded portions of the boffer with duct tape, they cannot be taped so tightly as to decrease the compression of the foam. (Tape length-wise not spiral)
10. All padded portions of the boffer must be covered with at least 1 layer of duct tape. Boffer blade cutting edges must be clearly indicated by contrasting colored tape.
11. Hand protection may be included on boffer. This may take the form of, but is not limited to: Crossgaurds, Quillions, or Baskets
12. The maximum boffer length is equal to the height of the contestant or six feet, whichever is less, including the handle.
13. No steel, wood (including rattan), or fiberglass is allowed on any boffer. Fiberglass strapping tape is allowed for interior reinforcement (not on exterior of the boffer).
14. Un-padded handle length shall be limited to eight inches or 25% of the total boffer's length, whichever is greater.
15. While creativity in boffer making is not discouraged, fighters should limit themselves to the bounds of historical accuracy.

Keep in mind safety is the foremost concern.

Supply List

schedule 40, 3/4 inch PVC pipe (A ten foot piece will be sufficient, there may be some left over when done)
duct tape-1 roll
contrasting color tape-1 roll (suggestion: electrical tape)
fiberglass tape-1 roll (The type where the threads of fiberglass can be seen)
round PVC caps (2 for a sword without a crosshilt, and 4 for a sword with a crosshilt)
closed cell-foam padding of 1/2 inch minimum thickness (it can be thicker)
Have enough to cover all but the handle area on your weapon.
marker
tape measure
scissors
PVC primer and cement
PVC 4-way joint (if crosshilt is wanted)
piece of paper

Instructions for a sword without a crosshilt

1. Cut PVC to total length wanted (see rule #12). Total length = blade length + handle length + 3” for butt end.

2. Using the marker, make two marks to show where the handle will be (see rule #4). Make your bottom handle mark 3” from the end of the PVC to allow for butt padding.

3. Using the rounded PVC caps, cap both ends. To do this, use the PVC primer to prime the inside of the caps and the outside of the PVC ends. Then, put PVC cement into the caps and place them on the primed PVC ends.

4. Use the fiberglass tape to cover all the PVC pipe. Tape length wise, not spiral.

5. Measure the length of PVC where the blade will be. Add two inches to this measurement, and cut a piece of the padding to this length.

6. Slide this piece of padding down the PVC leaving two inches extending over the end of the PVC. The bottom edge of the padding should be at (or close to) the top mark of your handle area.

7. Cut a two inch piece of padding and split it lengthwise. Stuff it into the hole of the padding that is extending past the end of the PVC (you might need to cut off some of the piece of padding that you are stuffing into the end to make it fit). (See rule #6)

8. Starting at the bottom of the padding (the top of the handle area), stretch a piece of duct tape length-wise along the padding. Leave a couple of inches of tape hanging off both ends of the padding. Now use your hands and go along the tape and smooth it down (smooth it from the side to side, not from top to bottom).

9. Fold the duct tape down over the tip of the sword. Fold and fit the duct tape as smoothly as you can over the bottom edge of the padding and around the handle.

10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 until all the padding is covered with duct tape. Let the strips of duct tape overlap each other about a 1/4 inch.

11. Using the contrasting colored tape and, taping length wise, stretch one piece of tape from the bottom of the padding (leave a few of inches of tape to fold down like the duct tape) up the length of the duct-taped blade, over the tip, and down the opposite side. Fold and fit the contrasting colored tape down at the bottom like the duct tape. Make sure your contrasting colored tape is not on the crevice of the padding when you put it onto the padding.

12. Take a piece of duct tape about six inches long and wrap it, spiral-wise, tightly around the duct tape and contrasting colored tape that was folded up against the bottom of the padding on the handle.

13. Now take a piece of padding about 5 inches long. Put it on the butt end of the sword. Make sure it has two inches of the padding extending over the end of the PVC. Do steps 7-10 and then move onto step 14.

14. Take a piece of duct tape six inches long and wrap it around the handle. Take another piece or two of tape and wrap the handle lengthwise. If any PVC is visible on the handle, cover it with duct tape.

You're done!!

Instructions for a sword with a crosshilt

1. Cut two pieces of PVC, both of them the same length. These pieces will be the arms of the crossguard. They should be about five inches long each, but it is up to you. Apply the PVC primer on one end of each arm piece, and in two holes in the 4-way PVC joint (the holes primed must be opposite one another). Put PVC pipe cement onto the primed ends of the arm pieces. Quickly put the ends into the primed 4-way joints. Make sure the pieces are on the opposite sides of the joint. Now cut a length of PVC that you want for a handle. Keep in mind that you will lose three inches of your handle to padding and pipe fittings (See rule #6). Prime one end of the handle and prime one hole in the 4-way joint. Put PVC cement on the primed handle end and fit it into the primed hole.

2. Cut a length of PVC for your blade. Prime one end of it and the remaining 4-way joint. Put cement on the primed blade end and fit it into the primed joint.

3. Using four rounded PVC caps, cap all ends (blade tip, butt, and crossguard arms). To do this, use the PVC primer to prime the inside of the caps and the outside of the PVC ends. Then, put PVC cement in the caps and place them on the primed PVC ends.

4. Now use the fiberglass tape to cover all the PVC. Tape length wise, not spiral.

5. Measure the length of PVC where the blade will be. Add two inches to this measurement, and cut a piece of padding to this length.

6. Slide this piece of padding down the PVC leaving two inches extending over the end of the PVC. The bottom edge of the padding should be at (or close to) the 4-way joint.

7. Cut a two inch piece of padding and split it lengthwise. Stuff it into the hole of the padding that is extending over the end of the PVC (you might need to cut off some of the piece of padding that you are stuffing into the end to make it fit). (See rule #6)

8. Starting at the bottom of the padding (the part closest to the 4-way joint), stretch a piece of duct tape length-wise along the padding. Leave a couple of inches of tape hanging off both ends of the padding. Now use your hands and go along the tape and smooth it down (smooth it from the side to side, not from top to bottom).

9. Fold the duct tape down over the end farthest from the 4-way joint. Fold and fit the duct tape as smoothly as you can over the bottom edge of the padding and around the handle.

10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 until all the padding is covered with duct tape. Let the strips of duct tape overlap each other about a 1/4 inch.

11. Using the contrasting colored tape and, taping length wise, stretch one piece of tape from the bottom of the padding (leave a few of inches of tape to fold down like the duct tape) up the length of the duct-taped blade, over the tip, and down the opposite side. Fold and fit the contrasting colored tape down at the bottom like the duct tape. Make sure your contrasting colored tape is not on the crevice of the padding when you put it onto the padding.

12. Now measure the length of one of the arms of your crosshilt. Add two inches to this length and cut out a piece of padding that is that length. Slide this piece of padding onto the crosshilt measured. Do steps 7-10. Take a piece of tape about six inches long and wrap it around the duct tape folded up against the 4-way joint.

13. Repeat step 12 for the other arm of your crosshilt.

14. Now take a piece of padding about 5 inches long. Put it on the butt of the handle, leaving two inches of padding extending past the end of the PVC. Do steps 7-10.

15. Take a piece of duct tape six inches long and wrap it around the folded up tape on the handle. Take another piece or two of duct tape and wrap the PVC on the handle lengthwise. If any PVC is visible on the handle cover it with duct tape.

You're done!!

Return to: Article Archive - Marshalate Mews - Home Page